Last week I had the opportunity to do a photo session with the best part of the new Villeret collection. Getting up close and personal with 3 main references in both stainless steel and red gold and with opaline or gold brown dials was a pure delight. So it’s a real pleasure to share the details of the beautiful facelift and some exciting details.
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Pictures tell more than a thousand words, so this blog post will contain a lot of photos. For once I will mix impressions of all three main references in their various iterations to put the main focus on the brilliant execution of this facelift.
As I mentioned in my overview on the new Villeret generation, it is not easy to rework an established collection with the task of preserving the core design language but creating a fresh appeal at the same time.
Blancpain put a lot of attention to various details of the Villeret, and they created real added value besides the pure aesthetic aspects. Here are some comparison photos based on the official Blancpain catalogue renders:
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So let’s got through the elements of the facelift and explore them on the Villeret Extraplate 6651N, the Villeret Quantieme Phases de Lune 6126N and the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654N.
Let me put this first: it will be a long post. Other than usually I will mix the different references in the photo sections, and I will use photo galleries instead of slideshows so you will be able to enlarge the photos and explore all details. But now let’s get started.
The new moonphase indication
The Blancpain moonphase indication is no less than iconic. It played a major role in the resurrection of the mechanical watch 50+ years ago and has shaped the face of many Blancpain references since.
The Villeret facelift has lifted the moonphase to a new level. The moon with his male and female faces is now applied to the disc and has a domed shape. This makes a huge difference and is a fantastic detail, especially since the print of the face allows for a very lively appearance depending on how light falls in.
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The Roman numerals
The Roman numerals have changed in style and finish. They are less playful than before with straight lines and no serifs. For the first time the applied numerals have a brushed finish on top and polished bevels. This subtle change results in a more retrained look but they still deliver a lively appearance when reflecting the light.
The Roman XII has been replaced with the JB logo, a detail we primarily know from the discontinued Leman series. It is of course finished in the same fashion as the Roman numerals.
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The hands
Another exciting aspect of the facelift are the new hands with their very beautiful shape and – again for the first time in a Villeret – luminous material in the center of the hour and minute hands. The seconds hand still carries the JB logo as a counterweight.
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The dials
And then there are the dials: all three main references are available with an opaline or golden brown dial, not only in the red gold case but also in stainless steel. Having dials previously reserved for precious metal cases only (with less than a handful exceptions) now used in the stainless steel variants is a major change for Blancpain and a great option for the customers.
Opaline dials have been part of Blancpain watches since the mid 1990s, across all model families. The warmth of the color works beautifully with all case materials and colors, it is an elegant and timeless choice.
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There have been brown sunburst dials in the Blancpain catalogue slightly over 20 years ago: the 38mm Villeret Quantieme Complet and Villeret Chronographe Monopussoir featured one in a white or red gold case, the Le Brassus Quantieme Perpetual had a brown dial in a 42mm platinum case.
The new golden brown (or some would say tobacco brown) dial is different from those. It reflects the light way less, meaning it doesn’t shine as bright in sunlight as the older ones did.
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The date and calendar indications
We have two types of date indications, the pointer date with references 6126N and 6654N, and the traditional date window with the 6651N. The latter one is a little bigger than before, and it was moved a bit to the outer side of the dial.
The pointer date with the heat blued serpent corresponding to the printed date ring has not changed.
All date, day and month discs are of course executed in dial matching colors. Blancpain chose black print for the date/day/month discs for the golden brown dials, which is less readable than for instance an off white print. I am sure this choice was made after reviewing both options, and the overall impression of the dial with black print (including the Blancpain signature) turned out better.
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The cases, bezels and the crown
No changes were made to the cases and bezels of the Villeret Extraplate and the Villeret Quantieme Phases de Lune. The crown however was updated to a slightly larger one with all new Villeret references. The calendar indications of the Villeret Quantieme Phases de Lunde are set by pushers in the case flank.
The Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654N on the other hand has got a slimmer bezel and new, broader lugs. This results in a lower case height of 10.6mm vs 10.9mm before. What was kept are of course the patented under-lug-correctors.
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The winding mass
The facelift of the Villeret goes beyond the face and the body, it also includes the heart of the watch. While the movement 6654.4 with 4Hz oscillation and 3 days of power reserve itself hasn’t changed, the winding mass has.
The new design of the 18ct gold rotor is impressive to say the least. The previous rotor design in yellow gold with its wave pattern has been replaced by a skeletonized red gold winding mass, proudly carrying the JB logo in the center. Just look at the brushed surface against the polished bevels, it’s a real thing of beauty.
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The straps and the deployant buckle
You can’t imagine how happy I am with Blancpain‘s new approach to straps beyond the women’s timepieces (which always received a high level of attention). In addition to the traditional black the new Villeret generation comes on matte alligator straps, with colors perfectly matching the opaline or golden brown dials.
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But that’s only one change. In addition the straps feature quick release spring bars for an easy and convenient strap change.
No, that’s still not all: the straps also have a quick release spring bar at the clasp. To allow for that Blancpain changed the deployant clasp and added a small extension. While doing that they also changed the pin for a more solid fix in the strap hole.
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Conclusions
It was about time for a renovated Villeret series, and there was a high level of anticipation. How does Blancpain approach this task, how can they maintain the core design philosophy of this important model family but give it a fresh start at the same time?
It is safe to say that Roman numerals split the watch enthusiast community. Some like and embrace them as one of the longest reaching traditional element of watch or clock faces. Some find them too old fashioned and out of style.
I was partial about whether a new generation of Villeret timepieces should keep Roman numerals or switch to neutral indices. Arabic numerals have been no option in my imagination, that would be to far from the elegance aspect Blancpain sees embedded in the Villeret and also too close to the discontinued Leman series.
Now that I have seen the result of the facelift I am absolutely loving it. The more plain Roman numerals with their brushed and polished finish have no old fashioned vibe at all. Blancpain did a masterful job by addressing enough details that impress and make sure the watches are immediately recognizable as a Blancpain Villeret timepiece.
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I usually stay away from discussing price levels for watches. But it is important to acknowledge the relation between price and added value. The new Villeret brings a lot of added value, like the new and more complex execution of the moonphase indication, the straps and deployant clasp, the dials or the beautiful winding mass. And with 40mm for the 6651N and 6654N (and 33mm for the 6126N) the size is in the absolute sweet spot.
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What impresses me most is the fact that the new Villeret offers a timeless design with such a plentiful of details that are always worthy of taking a loupe and enjoy them. What more could you possibly ask for?
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You find the new Villeret collection here on the Blancpain website. My introduction to the new Villeret collection can be found here in the blog.
I hope you made it safely through this long article and enjoyed the photos.
Cheers
Henrik