There have been quite a few Flashback essays recently, but when opportunities arise they should be taken. Today I have the pleasure to share impressions of another late 1990s favorite, the Fifty Fathoms GMT reference 2250 in the regular and Concept 2000 versions.
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Trilogy and Concept 2000
Before we get into the particular aspects of reference 2250 let me briefly explain the ideas behind the Trilogy collection and the Concept 2000 editions.
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The first modern revival of iconic sports watches after the resurrection of Blancpain started in 1996 with the Trilogy series: the Fifty Fathoms 2200 representing the Sea, the FF GMT representing Earth and the Air Command 2285F representing Air.
In 1999 the Concept 2000 iterations of those three models were the first watches Jean Claude Biver realized under his idea of Fusion, combining different materials to achieve a distinct look and feel. The Concept 2000 watches combined stainless steel and rubber coated fiberglass.
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A very practical function
The GMT or second time zone function is an established and popular complication in the world of fine watches. Blancpain has offered it in a wide range of models, but it has not been realized in the current Fifty Fathoms/Bathyscaphe line since 2007 with the exception of the 500 Fathoms GMT.
So let’s go back to the late 1990s and take a closer look at the watch with one of the most prominent GMT hands ever.
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The Trilogy Fifty Fathoms GMT
The watch with the reference number 2250-1130-71 features a polished stainless steel 40.3mm case and the well known X-71 bracelet.
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Of course we find the large screw down crown and also the Blancpain engraving on the case flank. The watch has a solid screw down case back, engraved with „Trilogy Collection“ and the individual number of the timepiece.
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The bezel features the Trilogy series typical raised numerals, only that in case of the FF GMT those indicate the 24 hours, corresponding to the GMT hand.
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The watch we see here is a NOS specimen still available. The watch has a new crystal with color neutral antireflective coating, other than the other specimen we take a closer look at in a minute.
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The ebony black dial features applied numerals and indices and shows the typical finish of the Trilogy models. The broad sword hands are also well known, as is the seconds hand with the characteristic red lacquered tip.
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Without a question the red GMT hand with its large fully lumed tip dominates the face of the watch. But even if it draws immediate attention, a closer look at the immaculate lacquering of the hand is clearly worth it.
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The Concept 2000 Fifty Fathoms GMT
In 1999 the Concept 2000 series was introduced, of course including a version of the FF GMT, reference 2250-6530-61.
The different aesthetic code results in a distinct and quite different appearance compared to the Trilogy version of the watch.
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Here the attention is not primarily drawn to the GMT hand but equally captured by the „black and white“ look of brushed stainless steel and rubber coated fiberglass elements. Those are used for different components of the watch: the bracelet center links, the crown, the bezel rim and the distance ring between bezel and crystal.
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This particular watch is also NOS and still available, but here the crystal has not been replaced during one of the periodical services. You can easily notice the blue hue of the antireflective coating and its visual effect when looking at the dial and hands.
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We find a solid case back here, too, engraved with „Concept 2000“ and the individual number of the watch. The Blancpain signature on the case flank shall not be missed, too.
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Two bracelets, both on top of the game
The principal design of the bracelet may be the same, the look and feel couldn’t be more different.
The stainless steel X-71 is recognized as one of the best bracelet in the watch world. It combines timeless aesthetics with a large degree of comfort and a solid heft, corresponding nicely with the weight of the watch itself.
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The Concept 2000 wears significantly lighter due to the rubber coated fiberglass elements, but also even more comfortable. The haptic experience of this bracelet is in a league of its own, it feels substantial yet soft, just like a high quality glove.
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Aesthetically the Concept 2000 blend of color and material is still unique until today. It may not be everybody’s taste, but it sticks firm in the memory of many watch enthusiasts.
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Cal 5A50
Hidden by the solid case backs, the Fifty Fathoms GMT is powered by caliber 5A50, which is based on caliber 1151, operating at 3Hz with a power reserve of 100 hours.
This movement allows for the main hour hand to be adjusted independently forward and backward in crown position 1, also moving the date disc in both directions.
Crown position 2 moves all hands to adjust the time, including the GMT hand.
Caliber 5A50 has no quick set mechanism for the date.
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Conclusions
The Fifty Fathoms GMT 2250 is no doubt a very interesting model within the Trilogy collection and the Concept 2000 series.
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With its added functionality and the large red lacquered GMT hand it is an all time favorite for many. The characteristic bezel may be considered a little less controversial than with the FF 2200 and Air Command 2285F, especially since there is no modern version with sapphire bezel.
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The only GMT model in today’s Fifty Fathoms line, the 500 Fathoms GMT, can be found here on the Blancpain website. If you wish to dig deeper into the Trilogy collection, you find my blog essay on it here. A review of the ultra rare Fifty Fathoms Concept 2000 in platinum can be found here in the blog.
I hope you enjoyed this Flashback essay and the photos.
Cheers
Henrik